Nestled between the Theban mountains and the Nile River, Medinat Habu is one of Luxor’s most well-preserved and underrated temples. As an architectural marvel and magnificent display of Egypt’s mortuary customs and material culture, the temple and its surrounding complex features numerous temples, storage rooms, workshops, and a royal palace that stood the test of time.
While the original Temple of Amun, constructed during the Hatshepsut and Tutmosis III era, was outshined by the imposing Ramses III mortuary complex, you can still see a small chapel from the era upon entrance. Indeed, the mortuary temple stands tall and mighty at the heart of the complex beyond the walls, an architectural inspiration after the Ramesseum of Ramses II.
The Syrian Gate is the first distinctive feature visitors experience when entering the site. Modeled after a two-story Syrian fortress gate, the entrance takes a 90-degree turn with ambush windows on the second floor - an architectural feature rarely seen in Egyptian architecture. Indeed, the gate contains images of the intense battles against the Hittites alongside a beautiful statue of the goddess of Sekhmet, the ferocious lion goddess.
Medinat Habu played a crucial role in keeping the spirit of the deceased pharaoh alive, as the Ancient Egyptians believed that offerings must be continuously made to keep him well in the afterlife. Thus, the memory of the pharaoh and his name was crucial. This practice is evident in the numerous cartouches carved deeply into the walls of Medinat Habu. The Egyptians believed that one’s name contained enough power to keep them alive in the world beyond, as evident in their near-obssesive need to build complex memorial and funerary temples.
Similarly, you can see scratched-out names in temples across Egypt—evidence of former family drama, coups, or conquest. The erasure of one’s name was the final criminal act ensuring they disappeared from the afterlife and history. Indeed, being remembered through history was one of Ramses III’s primary goals through the construction of Medinat Habu. The first pylon features dramatic glorified war scenes in relief, including Ramses III defeating the Libyans (recognized by their large beards and robes.) Described by modern Egyptian guides as an “ancient newspaper,” the pylon was a form of war propaganda and a memorial of the king’s accomplishments.
The temple comprises multiple pylons and courts, layers reminiscent of a Russian roll. Each layer gets smaller until it reaches the innermost sanctuary, known as the Holy of Holies, which housed the idol of a god. Another world-famous feature of Medinat Habu is its vibrant colored reliefs, which still contain shades of blue, red, and yellow. While all Egyptian temples were painted during construction, very few paint remnants remain today. Through conservation efforts, however, the true colors of Mediant Habu are being revitalized and shining through to captivate visitors and Egyptians alike. The vibrant colors appear to transport visitors back in time, reminding them of the true identity and design of these architectural marvels.
To get an authentic experience of the site, it is also necessary to step outside the mortuary temple and explore the ruins of the royal palace. With only a few examples of royal palaces remaining from Ancient Egypt, here you can explore the passages and rooms used for royals, officials, and priests. Historically, Luxor was divided between the west bank and the east bank, with the western side of the river only being for the cult of the dead. Therefore, this distinctive palace on the western side demonstrates the importance of the cult of Ramses III, and how the living still honored the dead long after their passing.
Visiting Medinat Habu is an excellent way to experience Egyptian architecture while immersed in the stories of the pharaohs and their quest for immortality. It is as if you could almost reach out and see their humanity and longing for glory. Visiting in the evening or early morning is also an ideal option to avoid crowds—a way to take your time walking amongst history.
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