What image comes to mind when you think of Mexican food?
If you said taco, then you, like many others, know that it is not only a staple of Mexican cuisine but also an iconic dish that symbolizes Mexican heritage, community, and legacy. This food is deeply rooted in the fabric of history, persevering over centuries of glorious empires, conquests, and revolutions. Today, the taco represents a cultural identity for Mexicans and Mexican-Americans, who navigate the path of trying to balance their assimilation into American culture and keeping roots in their heritage. In this article, I will share with you the history, cultural significance, and anthropological perspective on the taco - taking you on a journey to understand the deep layers of cultural customs, socioeconomic factors, and gender roles that revolve around this delicious food.
What better place to start than thousands of years ago with the birth of maize?
Maize began to grow as a domesticated plant in the valleys of Mexico around 7000 BCE with the assistance of humans. (Pilcher, 2012) In 1500-1200 BCE, the corn was nixtamalized and mixed with alkaline ash to bring out the vitamins and nutrients. With the development of the metate, the comal, and other tools to create the tortilla, maize became the symbol of indigenous food and the foundation of the birth of advanced Mesoamerican cultures. In the Mayan Popol Vuh, it is said that maize was the gift of the Feathered Serpent God, Quetzalcoatl. (Pilcher, 2012) Therefore, even after the Spanish arrived, maize remained the staple food of the indigenous populations across the continent. (Sanchez, 2022)
It wasn’t until the 19th and 20th centuries that there was an effort to create a unified national cuisine, something challenging to achieve due to the variations in regional foodscapes. As the cuisine began to take shape, the taco was already widespread, as Sanchez (2022) mentions, “Indigenous peoples had been wrapping filling in tortillas for as long as maize had been domesticated; different fillings communicated information about the geography, culture, and sociopolitical dynamics of whatever region a person was eating in.”(pg. 24) In the post-WWII period, with the rise of American-Mexican trade and immigration, Mexican food rapidly gained popularity in the United States. New food cultures emerged, like Southwestern and Tex-Mex (with the help of the Chili Queens in Texas and the birth of Taco Bell in Los Angeles.)
Yet behind the nationalism of the cuisine, tacos were associated with the lower farming class. As the Industrial Revolution expanded in Mexico City, the elite class of Mexicans perceived the maize brought by new economic migrants as a danger to morality and health. Senator Francisco Bulnes racistly stated, “Maize has been the eternal pacifier of America’s Indigenous races and the foundation of their refusal to become civilized.” (Pilcher, 2012, p.82) His comment reflected the notion that indigenous food, in particular tortillas and their bi-products such as tacos, were ‘barbaric and less civilized.’ Instead, the Mexican elites, stemming back from the days of New Spain, preferred bread. As Sanchez describes, “Food was used to establish in-groups and out, display social mores and beliefs, and identify oneself as belonging (or not) in the new world order.” (Sanchez, 2022, pg. 20)
Even in the last few decades, the association between tacos and poverty has prevailed.
This is seen in the story of the “Marias” - Mexico’s indigenous women famed for selling handmade tortillas in the big cities and maintaining traditional taco-making methods amidst a rise in globalization and nostalgia. (Bordi, 2006) While conducting the study with a group of “Marias,” Bordi (2006) notes that the discourse surrounding their consumption of tacos is that it is “food for the poor” and that they are “poor because they only eat tacos.” (pg. 101)
The story of the “Marias” highlights the gender roles surrounding food. Indeed, the division of labor has always been gendered for the tortilla. Bordi (2006) describes how the women were tasked with grinding the nixtamalized maize and cooking the tortillas on the comal. This daily task took a large quantity of physical labor and time. As women have had the responsibility for thousands of years, Sanchez describes that women possess “wise, magical knowledge” while other rural women describe themselves as “guardians and warriors who defend this country’s land.” (pg. 32)
Corresponding to the rise of indigenous women selling homemade tacos on the streets, there has been an increase in demand for “authentic” Mexican food in the wake of globalization. This “phenomenon of nostalgia” is a common worry in many parts of the world, where the homogeneity of large fast-food chains is threatening indigenous and local cuisines. (Trainer et al., 2020) From my personal experience, I have seen how the idea of globalization spreading the fast-food taco is a fear among Mexican youth. They are aware of the dichotomy of having a sense of pride that their cultural foods are popular and a fear of “Americanization.”
Indeed, different from the “Taco Bell” taco with its fried shell and ground beef, the traditional tacos in Mexico offer a variety of regional fillings and accompanying traditions. Besides popular meats such as carne asada or carnitas, one may find various cuts, including cow tongue, brains, eyes, and cheek. In Mexico, it's normal - in America, they may call it “disgusting.” Indeed, the taco also has its subculture of taboo or not taboo ingredients, depending on your country of origin. Dog meat is the most infamous taboo item in a taco. Immortalized in humor and associated with the “one-peso taco” myth, dog meat is one of the most significant taboo foods for Americans and many Mexicans.
What is the “one-peso taco” (taco a un peso) myth? It is the common notion in Mexico that tacos are so cheap they can make you sick or contain dog meat. During my time there, I have been advised never to get a one-peso taco (which is $0.055) but to stick with the tacos between 10-20 pesos, or $0.50 to $1.00. This notion reflects the culture’s more profound association between low cost and low quality and its connotation of being associated with poverty and the lower class.
Beyond the various taboo foods (by American standards) in Mexico, specific tacos are eaten seasonally and carry religious or cultural meanings. Some examples include the Tacos De Birria from Jalisco, usually served on special occasions, or Tacos Barbacoa, which is reserved for parties because they take so long to make. The filling of a taco can also tell a story of immigration patterns - tacos al pastor originally came from Lebanese immigrants who brought with them shawarma-style meat. (Arellano, 2012) Barbacoa originated from the Caribbean, and Cochinita Pibil originated from the Indigenous people of the Yucatan.
And where else could one eat these tacos but in a taqueria famed for its taqueros! Sanchez (2022) describes the archetypal masculine taquero as having “big hands to serve a big handful of meat.” (pg. 31) There is an emphasis on strength and dominance, with the taquero being able to use his “big hands” to handle the large knives. The role is also described as masculine because of its association with violence (or using knives), and because it is a nighttime activity where the streets could be dangerous for women. “Food preparation here has less to do with skill or knowledge and more to do with cultural norms about where certain genders are allowed. Through food production and consumption, maleness is reproduced as a power structure.” (pg. 32)
Regarding food and power, the taco has not escaped the greedy hands of large fast-food corporations, local governments, or the effects of globalization. While Mexicans display nostalgia for authentic food, American companies have monopolized various subcultures of the cuisine, capitalizing on the taco for a broader range of consumers. (Pilcher, 2012) In the background of the rise in fast-food consumption, small taco stands run by Mexican immigrants in the United States are paying the price. According to Husa (2021), taco trucks have created a space for Mexicans to connect and reminisce on their shared culture in American cities.
“Unfortunately, the presence of these taco trucks is seen by some existing community members as a threat to their own social identities and cultural landscapes.” (Husa, 2021, 308) In my local community in Los Angeles, there have been efforts to shut down taco stands and episodes of police confiscating all equipment from local vendors who are trying to make a living. (Pho, 2023) Combined with ongoing complaints due to “littering and noise,” the taco truck vendors face a hard dilemma - either risk confiscating their stands or find an alternative way to make an income. The debate is still not settled.
Before wrapping up, are you hungry yet? As a staple of the Mexican people's ancient heritage and a sense of belonging for Mexican-Americans, the taco has withstood the test of time. Yet, in our modern era, it also reflects deep-rooted gender roles and inequalities based on poverty—issues that are affecting communities across Mexico and the US. Always remember, foods symbolize much more than a tasty meal—they tell the story of humanity and its many complexities.
References
Arellano, G. (2012). Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. Scribner.
Bordi, I. V. (2006). The “Authentic” Taco and Peasant Women: Nostalgic Consumption in the Era of Globalization. Culture and Agriculture, 28(2), 97-107. Wiley.
Husa, A. (2021). The taco truck: how Mexican street food is Transforming the American City [Book Review]. Taylor and Francis Online.
Pho, B. (2023, February 14). Will Santa Ana Ramp Up Its Battle Against Taco Stands? Voice of OC. Retrieved April 15, 2023, from https://voiceofoc.org/2023/02/will-santa-ana-ramp-up-its-battle-against-taco-stands/
Pilcher, J. M. (2012). Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food. Oxford University Press.
Sanchez, B. (2022). Stories We Tell, Stories We Eat: Mexican Foodways, Cultural Identity, and Ideological Struggle in Netflix’s Taco Chronicles. The University of Oregon. ProQuest.
Trainer, S., Hardin, J., SturtzSreetharan, C., & Brewis, A. (2020). Worry-Nostalgia: Anxieties around the Fading of Local Cuisines and Foodways. Gastronomica, 20(2), 67-78.
“Original ChatGPT Text” used for the Assignment:
“The taco is considered a comfort food for many Mexicans. Tacos are a staple of Mexican cuisine and are often associated with home-cooked meals and family gatherings. They are also a popular street food, offering a quick and satisfying meal for people on the go. In addition to their cultural significance, tacos are a versatile food that can be adapted to different tastes and dietary restrictions. Whether filled with meat, vegetables, beans, or cheese, tacos can be customized to suit individual preferences and are a popular choice for both casual and formal dining occasions. Overall, the taco is an important part of Mexican food culture and is widely enjoyed as a comforting and satisfying meal that brings people together.”
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